Wild Atlantic Way: The 9 Best Places to Visit
Posted by Ima Ocon on 5th Oct 2018
If you think you know road trips, think again. Ireland takes the notion of a scenic drive to a whole new level with the Wild Atlantic Way, a 1,500-mile route along the Atlantic coastline that weaves together an incomparable tapestry of experiences: more than 1,000 attractions, 157 special sites, countless towns and villages, and the chance to try all sorts of outdoor activities. It’s travel in the truest sense of the term—not only sight-seeing, but the ability to encounter people and unique cultures found only along the route in order to bask in the essence of Western Ireland.
The route, signified by road signs, covers a wide selection of Ireland’s counties: Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Clare, Galway, Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, and Donegal. There’s no fixed place to start from, but to make the most out of the trip, the recommended direction is South to North, going from Old Head of Kinsale in Cork all the way to Ireland’s most northern point, the Inishowen Peninsula, in Donegal. Because the Irish drive on the left-hand side of the road, the main benefit of this is that as you drive north, you’ll be in the lane closest to the Atlantic. Another convenient option is disembarking from Shannon Airport, which handles regular flights from Europe, US, and the UK. It’s found in County Clare, nearly the dead center of the Wild Atlantic Way, where you can get going in either direction.
Assuming you drive roughly the speed limit of Ireland’s regional, local, and municipal roads (between 30 and 50 miles-per-hour) and don’t stop, the route could be completed in about two days. But who would want that? According to Tourism Ireland, the average time to drive the route is a week and a half. We recommend taking your time, though, since every place deserves to be savored—Ireland’s scenery is nothing less than breathtaking—and you’re bound to find many hidden gems and delightful detours. Checking off all of the attractions in one go is impossible, but we’ve highlighted the must-see destinations, with one for each county:
CORK
Aerial view of the Old Head of Kinsale golf course. (Fáilte Ireland)
As the largest county in Ireland, Cork is a leading tourist destination crammed with picturesque farms, laidback villages, and colorful towns with their own distinct character. Its capital, Cork City, is a cosmopolitan hub with a lively cultural and culinary scene that’s apparent in its numerous museums, cafes, and pubs.
Old Head of Kinsale
Towering cliffs and fields covered with wildflowers characterize this headland, which extends nearly two miles into the Atlantic Ocean—a striking location for an 18-hole golf course. Playing a game of golf becomes a simultaneous exercise in embracing the dramatic terrain, as all of the holes allow visitors to look out over the ocean and some of them are even set on clifftops. While the headland is geared toward golfers, its other delights include a prominent lighthouse from the 17th century and ancient Celtic ruins. For a more organized exploration, the Old Head of Kinsale Loop sets down a 1.5-hour route circling the headland.
KERRY
Skellig Michael and Little Skellig off the shore of County Kerry. (Valerie O'Sullivan / Fáilte Ireland)
This county possibly brings in the most tourism in the whole of Ireland because of its stunning driving routes, a gigantic national park spanning 26,000 acres, and an island that was featured in Star Wars. Many iconic photos of Ireland have been taken here, so you might get a sense of déjà vu as you explore its breathtaking sights.
Skellig Michael
It’s an impressive track record: Skellig Michael has been talked about as early as 1400, and it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. Making up half of the Skellig Rocks (right alongside Little Skellig), this island has worked its way into legends. Visually, it’s impressive—rising out of the Atlantic Ocean, with a harsh terrain and wisps of cloud all around—but the main lure for brave travelers is an ancient Christian monastic site that only ascetics could have lived in. The beehive-shaped architectural marvel required monks to walk 600 stone steps to make it to the top, a feat that they had to accomplish daily as they hunted fish to survive.
LIMERICK
A life-size replica of the Yankee Clipper, one of several Boeing 314 Clippers operated by Pan American Airways on the company's transatlantic route that terminated in Limerick. (Carsten Krieger / Tourism Ireland)
Set next to the banks of the River Shannon, Limerick encompasses stretches of quiet countryside with an assortment of historical sites. On the western coast, it serves as an art haven that hosts festivals, and there are plenty of galleries, museums, and hotels to choose from, right alongside an active nightlife.
Foynes Flying Boat and Maritime Museum
A must-see in Limerick is Foynes, a seaport village near the Shannon Estuary. Its highlight is the Foynes Flying Boat and Maritime Museum, which details the village’s global mark in aviation in the 1930s to 1940s. The first international airport in the world was built in Foynes, which used flying boats to transport passengers across the Atlantic during World War II. Foynes is a pioneer in coffee too, since Chef Joe Sheridan’s Irish coffee originated here and was initially served to Foynes passengers. Enjoy it in a classical setting at the Foynes Irish Coffee Centre, which is found inside the museum, and learn more about its timeline through a 3D hologram.
CLARE
The Cliffs of Moher are among the tallest cliffs in Europe. (Christopher Hill Photographic / Tourism Ireland)
For well-rounded scenery, Clare sets the bar high, even in a country as multifaceted and rich in lush greenery as Ireland. Ocean waves dramatically crash against steep cliffs but also wash gently on shores that attract surfers from all over. Venturing inland will lead you to rolling pastures and foliage as far as the eye can see, as well as age-old geological structures.
Cliffs of Moher
Many would swear by the Cliffs of Moher as the top destination in Ireland. Limestone cliffs jut out over the Atlantic at a drop of 700 feet, among the highest in Europe. Nothing compares to standing at the top, with the wind whipping past you, water crashing against rock in a vicious meeting of elements, and the surrounding grasses dotted with wildflowers giving way to counties spread out far below. Seabirds flit by—puffins, peregrines, razorbills, kittiwakes—and you can ask for information or grab a bite at the visitor information center. Here’s a fun fact: the Cliffs have inspired legends and folktales about lost cities and star-crossed lovers.
GALWAY
Derrigimlagh Bog is unparalleled in still, quiet, natural beauty. (Big Smoke Studio / Tourism Ireland)
Galway stands out as a vibrant and innovative center of culture thanks to its namesake city, which holds several artistic festivals every year. Despite its propensity for the avant-garde, it remains faithful to its roots through timeless places like the Aran Islands and Connemara, within which traditional Irish culture thrives.
Derrigimlagh Bog
This blanket bog close to Clifden, Connemara captivates with its desolate, almost haunting air—an intriguing stopover after traveling for a while on country roads. But beyond sheer aesthetics, it’s remarkable for the role that it has played throughout history. A white memorial shaped like an airplane wing is meant to honor John Alcock and Arthur Whitten Brown, the first pilots who successfully flew across the Atlantic Ocean (and ended up landing on the bog). You’ll also come across the remnants of a radio station that sent one of the world’s first transatlantic signals in 1907 onwards, only to get razed to the ground during the Irish Civil War.
MAYO
Achill Island is renowned for its water sports like kitesurfing. (Tourism Ireland)
If you’re in Mayo, congratulations—you’re already halfway through with the Wild Atlantic Way! Your journey here will trail the northern and western Atlantic coastlines. It’s home to Westport, which was voted as the best Irish town to live in, while remaining quiet and peaceful even with its surfing paradises, church ruins, and other diverse attractions.
Achill Island
The largest island in the country, with a population of more than 2,500, Achill has a grand history extending back to 5,000 years ago. Modernity mingles freely with old-world charm in this traveler hotspot. Its postcard-perfect beaches, which include Keem Bay and Keel Beach, come alive with outdoor sports all year round, coexisting with abandoned villages and centuries-old forts and churches. The sea cliffs are impressive, ranking as among the third highest in Europe, and patches of blanket bog add to the romanticism of the island. To top it off, it’s easily reachable via car because of a bridge that connects with the mainland.
SLIGO
Benbulben towers over the Sligo countryside and can be seen for miles. (Fáilte Ireland)
Sligo is especially popular for being the county where the poet W.B. Yeats lived in. Many of his poems feature nature heavily, and Sligo provides the perfect backdrop for that, as the crashing ocean waves of its coastline contrasts with the craggy peaks of the Dartry Mountains all throughout the drive. It’s also greet for outdoor activities such as surfing, golfing, and hiking.
Mullaghmore Head
Mullaghmore is a small fishing village that lies close to the border of Sligo and Donegal. The skyline here is iconic because of the megalithic Benbulben Mountain, and the coastline looks out over the North Atlantic. Because waves can reach as high as 30 m in special areas called prowlers, especially during the winter, it has often been the venue for international surfing competitions. Aside from surfing, you can go swimming or embark on a boat trip to Inishmurray Island. For those who’d rather stay on land, it’s also just as relaxing to stroll around and marvel at the lovely view while watching out for wild birds.
LEITRIM
The Glencar Waterfall is a humble natural wonder. (Christopher Hill Photographic / Fáilte Ireland)
Out of all the counties that are part of the Wild Atlantic Way, Leitrim is the smallest. It’s also the county that has the least population in Ireland, and you can breathe easy here because of the lack of crowds A welcome respite from the chaotic buzz of cities, Leitrim is abundant in rivers, lakes, and other bodies of water, and it has become a favorite haven for many artisans.
Glencar Waterfall
Although this small waterfall drops down from only around 50 feet, it earned a mention from Yeats in his poem “The Strange Child,” written more than a century ago. What entranced Yeats then has hardly changed in the present: water gracefully cascades in layers past steep rocks while surrounded by thick foliage. The scene is almost magical and otherworldly, especially since the waterfall lies at the base of a mountain and isn’t very visible from the road. After raining, the effect is heightened, and visitors can get all the way to top through a walkway.
DONEGAL
Slieve League, or Sliabh Liag in Irish, offers views of four counties along the Wild Atlantic Way. (Christopher Hill Photographic / Tourism Ireland)
Although Donegal is the second largest county in Ireland, it’s also relatively remote and isolated. Much of its charm comes from the ruggedness of its landscapes and its well-preserved pockets of nature, from walking trails with beautiful lighthouses (Fanad) to beaches that attract wild birds from faraway countries (Malin Head).
Slieve League
Reaching as far as 609 meters above the Atlantic Ocean, these cliffs offer a stupendous view that encompass Sligo, Leitrim, and the Mayo Coast. They’re known as among the best in Europe, so be sure to reserve a spot for them on your itinerary! Conveniently, you can drop by the Slieve League Cliffs Centre and the Ti Linn Craft Shop nearby, both of which sell local artworks. When trekking up the cliffs, walking is recommended, but if you’d rather rest your feet, driving is more convenient. Along the way, expect to come across the remains of monastic sites, which contribute to the serene, rustic air.
*****
The Wild Atlantic Way is a road trip like no other in the world, and it’s comparable to trying to bottle the experience of Ireland within the span of a limited time. No other experience does it as well in terms of breadth. You will encounter many surprises along the way, learn about the myriad forms that nature can take, and obtain a vague sense of how complex Ireland is as a country, not only in its present state but also through the history echoed through its people and places. The Wild Atlantic Way is not for the faint-hearted—but it already becomes difficult to say no once you’ve gone past your first few signposts and allowed the wildness of the coastline to lead you forward.