Approximately eight miles (12 km) off the coast of Portmagee in southwest Kerry, the Skellig Islands rise from the sea, majestic twins of stone climbing towards the sky. These two craggy islands are not only home to a variety of seabirds who nest primarily on Little Skellig; the larger Skellig Michael also boasts centuries of Irish history in its mountainous terrain.

Skellig Michael (sometimes called Great Skellig; Sceilig Mhichíl in Irish) rises about 714 feet above sea level, a wilderness site and designated Nature reserve. Little Skellig is, as the name suggests, smaller at approximately 445 feet high. The islands’ geography and history make them some of the most unique cultural sites in Ireland (and perhaps the world).

HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE

People have talked about the Skelligs for almost as long as the Irish have existed—they have become a part of the Irish national heritage. Skellig Michael is the more well-known of the Skelligs, referenced in history as early as 1400 BC. The island also appears in Irish folklore, providing the setting for a battle between Daire Domhain (the “King of the World”) and Irish warrior-hero Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool).

The Monastery

Aside from the thunderous footsteps of mac Cumhaill, the island also has a place in Irish history separate from the folklore and legend. Skellig Michael is the site of one of the world’s best-preserved medieval monasteries—believed to date as far back as the 6^th century. The stone huts that the monks lived in are still there today, available to visit for anyone willing to risk the sea voyage and climb the 600-plus steps from the water’s edge to the summit. The monastery complex includes a church, a small graveyard, two oratories, walled gardens, and the beehive-shaped cells that the monks called home. It is likely that the island, as well as the monastery, was dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel upon the building of the church.

While it may seem a romantic idea now, to take off to an isolated island in the midst of the sea, life on Skellig Michael was anything but. Atop the rock, through sun and storm, the monastery served as an isolated spot where the devoted monks survived on a diet of what they could find and catch themselves—birds, eggs, fish, seaweed. Lighting a fire to cook or to keep away the damp would have been nearly impossible without some great ingenuity and pre-planning—no trees grow on the island, so there is nothing really to burn. Even the monastery cells are constructed from stone instead of wood (indicating that the island’s inhabitants forced themselves to work with what the island provided, and no more).

It’s believed that only a small handful of monks lived on the island at a time—perhaps between six and twelve—and many died young. Living in rough conditions, in isolation at the very edge of the known world, was not conducive to reaching a ripe old age.

In the 12^th century, however, the monks were forced to leave their isolated home after a prolonged spell of cold, stormy weather and changes in the structure of the Irish church changed their lifestyle forever. Skellig Michael was left deserted, except for the seabirds who nested in the cliffs.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

Today, the Skelligs have been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their importance to Irish and world history (they were added to the World Heritage List in 1996). Conservation work began in the 1880s when the island and its structures became the official property of the State. While Skellig Michael’s isolation has helped to preserve it from the regular wear and tear that other sites have experienced (just from everyday use and human interaction), that does not mean that it doesn’t require upkeep. Conservation work began in the 1880s when the island became the official property of the State. There have been some small conservation works in progress through the years since then, with minor work being done in the 1930s and more current preservation plans beginning in the 1970s.

Major conservation work began in the mid-1980s, which was conducted along with archaeological investigations. Skellig Michael is currently managed by the Office of Public Works, and protected under the National Monuments legislative code (which provides for protection and preservation of national monuments and archaeological sites).

In order to protect Skellig Michael for years to come, the Office of Public Works has limited the tourist season to a specific time period each year. Access to the island by private boats is discouraged, although there are plenty of tour boats that run from the mainland to the island during the tourist season.

SKELLIG WILDLIFE

The islands are a sanctuary for puffins like this one on Skellig Michael. (Maureen / CC BY 2.0 / via Flickr)

The Skelligs are also known worldwide as one of the most important sites for seabird breeding in Ireland (and possibly the world). The remote nature of the islands, along with their relatively undisturbed and isolated position in the ocean, is a safe haven for many varieties of seabirds. This gives the birds the opportunity to nest, raise their young, and live their lives mostly unmolested by human interaction.

The sea cliffs are not exactly the most lush and green countryside in the nation—the rocky crags are subjected to harsh maritime conditions and rough weather year-round. While the birds are able to nest in peace on the Skelligs, there is not a whole lot of food available for them on the islands themselves. Instead, the birds are able to hunt for food in surrounding Atlantic Ocean while remaining largely free from predators on the craggy hills of their preferred nesting grounds. Seabird species that are known to nest or breed on the Skelligs include the gannet, puffin, Arctic tern, razorbill, manx shearwater, storm petrel, and cormorant, among others.

Both the size of the seabird colonies and the diversity of the species who nest on the Skelligs make the islands every important—to the point that Skellig Michael has been designated as a Statutory Nature Reserve and a Special Protection Area. It is also a proposed Natural Heritage area.

TRAVEL TO THE SKELLIG ISLANDS

How To Get There

Part of the romance of the islands is their remoteness. Sixth Century monks had to row for close to five hours in order to make it from the mainland to the Skelligs. Today, you don’t have to row across the sea in order to reach your destination, but access is still troublesome, even with modern technology. A crossing can take between 45 minutes to one and a half hours (one-way), depending on the weather conditions.

Landing on Little Skellig is not permitted due to the sensitive nature of the seabird nesting sites. Skellig Michael is only accessible from mid-May through the end of September. Even during the season, access to Skellig Michael depends entirely on the weather. Even though you’re not making passage in a rowboat, ferries cannot run during periods of rough seas and high winds. If you’re looking for a unique, exclusive experience, a tour to Skellig Michael’s windswept hills may be just the ticket you’re looking for.

When You Get There

Keep in mind that the island is isolated and has been preserved in its historical integrity—you will not find indoor plumbing or creature comforts, although you will find breathtaking views. There are no bathrooms on the island, and the steps leading from the boat landings to the top of the mountain are steep and often slippery. It is important to wear good walking shoes (you’re going to do quite a bit of walking), and some sunscreen, food, and water. Not only are there no bathrooms, there are no concessions stands, either. (Of course you want to make sure that you clean up after yourself and don’t throw any refuse on the ground, as much for the safety for the seabirds as for respect of the site.) It is also a good idea to bring some weather gear—at least a poncho or umbrella in the case of a sudden rainstorm, even if the day is bright and sunny.

Safety briefings are mandatory for all visitors to Skellig Michael. If you have health or fitness issues that would make climbing the steps difficult, you may want to reconsider a trip out or at least plan accordingly. Small children are not encouraged to visit simply because of the nature of the terrain.

The Book Of Secrets

On her 1997 album The Book of Secrets, recording artist Loreena McKennitt featured a song titled “Skellig,” a story told from the point of view of a monk who lived in the monastery on Skellig Michael. The song tells a haunting tale of a life lived in the service of God, the importance of the monastery’s scribe culture, and the bittersweet memories of a life lived out above the waves and braving storms.

“Little Skellig”

First published in 2011, Moya Cannon’s poem “Little Skellig” is a piece that evokes the emotional impact upon viewing the nesting grounds of the smaller island. While the monks on Skellig Michael may have sang their hymns, there is something holy in the fact that rows and lumps of seabirds that roost on the nearby island have remained even after their neighbors are long gone.

The Last Jedi

The Skelligs also feature largely in the latest renditions of the Star Wars saga. While fans may have been excited about the highly anticipated return of their great hero, Luke Skywalker, the Irish countryside featured prominently as the hero’s hideout.

After a falling out with Kylo Ren, Skywalker disappeared in search of the first Jedi temple. The planet Ahch-To--where he eventually found the temple, where Skywalker spent the years between Return of the Jedi and his eventual return in The Force Awakens—is actually Skellig Michael. The rocky monastery cells, the craggy cliffs rising from the sea, the isolation that Skywalker craves, are all unified in the historic Skelligs.

While the production was granted only four days to shoot their scenes on Skellig Michael, the distinct visuals are something of an homage to the monks who lived on the island in centuries past. It makes sense that the home of the Jedi religion, with its central ideas of Light and Dark sides, with a sense of focus and control, would also resemble the home of the monks who served as a candle against the darkness of the Middle Ages. It also makes sense that director Rian Johnson would be so delighted with the puffins that nest in the Skelligs that he would commemorate their presence with a new creature. After all, in both worlds, the birds stayed long after the monks deserted their temples. May the porgs be with you.